The rocky outcrop where crew of The Endeavour first stepped onto the Australian shore – see it on a day trip to Kurnell
Kurnell is known as the birthplace of modern Australia as it is the landing spot of Captain James Cook, the man who ‘discovered’ Australia. It is also known as the place where the land was dispossessed from the local Aboriginals, the Gwiyagal people who are the traditional custodians of this area of Sydney. To best understand Kurnell to the Australian people, both indigenous and European, a day trip to Kurnell is in order.
When you take a day trip to Kurnell you will find a number of monuments erected in memory of Captain James Cook and other crew. You will also discover a heritage listed national park, an interesting visitor’s centre, a number of walking tracks, a lovely bay beach, a couple of vibrant cafes and information on the local Aboriginals. And at certain times of the year whale watching from the cliffs at Kurnell.
So join me on this easy day trip from Sydney to spend one day at Kurnell to discover a beautiful landscape with an interesting history.
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Where is Kurnell
Where is Kurnell I hear you ask? Kurnell is about 22 kilometres south of Sydney’s Central Business District. It is located on the shores of Botany Bay, actually on the south Headland of the bay, in the local government area of the Sutherland Shire.
A brief History of Kurnell
Captain James Cook, credited with discovering Australia
As mentioned, Kurnell is known as the birthplace of modern Australia. This is where Captain James Cook first stepped ashore and claimed the land for Great Britain. The story though begins in England on 26 August 1768 when the HMS Endeavour, under the Command of Captain James Cook, left Plymouth in England to search for the great southern continent in the Pacific. If this land was found, Captain Cook was to chart it and record information about plants, animals and soils. And this is exactly what he did.
Captain Cook reached the east coast of the great southern land on 20 April 1770. Due to the conditions at the time, the ship was prevented from making landfall. So the Endeavour sailed north. Some 9 days later, the first safe harbour Cook found he dropped anchor in. This was on 29 April 1770 and the place where they stepped ashore is now called Kurnell. You will find a small plaque marking the spot.
Captain Cook and his crew spent 8 days at Kurnell discovering the native flora and fauna. They also came in contact with the locals, the Gwiyagal people, who Cook wrote ‘did not greet them in a friendly manner’. Well, would you, if your land was being dispossessed? Cook named the bay Botany Bay after all the botanical specimens discovered and collected by two of his crew, botanists Joseph Banks and Daniel Solander. Cook though thought Kurnell, being at the entrance of the bay was very open. So it was decided a more sheltered port should be found. The Endeavour sailed northwards along the coast and found what was named Port Jackson, which was more secluded. And as you may know, Port Jackson became the site for Sydney.
Kurnell over the years has remained a sleepy little seaside village best known for the large oil refinery built there. However, the refinery has closed and the area is being developed with seaside homes offering ‘million dollar views’. You will still see the long wharf where the ships would anchor for the oil to be brought ashore.
The area of significance where Captain Cook landed and the area they explored and discovered. It’s full of flora and fauna and is now a national park, the Kamay Botany Bay National Park. So Kurnell and the national park are linked together and easily explored as one on your one day at Kurnell.
What to see and do in Kurnell and Kamay Botany Bay National Park
The Obolesque (and the Obolesque covered in scaffolding the day I was there. It was being spruced up for the 250th anniversary of the landing of Captain Cook).
Begin your visit to Kurnell by parking along the foreshore and walking into the park – this will cost you nothing. Or you could drive to the Kurnell Visitor Centre within the national park and park. There is an entrance fee of $10 to the park which is open daily – and does close overnight. Buy a ticket from one of the machines in the car park near the Kurnell Visitor Centre.
Kurnell Visitor Centre
The Kurnell Visitor Centre is only tiny but it is well worth a visit on your one day in Kurnell visit. Inside you will find many interesting facts about Captain James Cook and his time in Kurnell. Plus, how the area’s Aboriginal inhabitants lived at the time when Captain Cook arrived. There are artefacts and hands on displays to experience as well as an art gallery, a film in the theatre, shop and a cafe. It is well worth starting your journey in Kurnell here.
From the Kurnell Visitor Centre you can easily go on the walks or you could drive to certain spots in the national park. Perhaps just walk along the foreshore where there are a number of historical sites, including where Captain James Cook first stepped ashore. You can pick up a map of Kurnell at the Kurnell Visitor Centre.
Historical Sites
Cooks landing spot commemorated on this rocky outcrop at Kurnell
Even though it was only for eight days, Captain Cook’s landing spot is an integral part of Australian history. Jump across the rock pools to reach this spot. And continue walking along the foreshore discovering the Tank Stream where they found fresh water and looking at the native plants.
Walking Tracks
Kurnell and the Kamay Botany Bay National Park have a number of historical sights which are marked by plaques and even an obelisk. The best way to see them is to take the walks and find out about each sight. A good walk to take is the Burrawang Walk Loop. This will provide you with a great historical insight into this fascinating area and can easily be walked during your one day at Kurnell.
Burrawang Walk Loop
The Burrawang Walk Loop is a 1.2km loop taking around 15 to 45 minutes to walk. It’s difficulty rating is ‘easy’ and I suggest after walking it, it is. Beginning at the Kurnell Visitor Centre, the walk provides you with the story of the meeting of European and indigenous Aboriginal culture. You will pass several historic sites – the Welcome Wall, Meeting Place, Soundscape, Cook’s Landing Place, Ferry Shelter Shed, Banks’ Memorial and the freshwater stream. Each site has a plaque and information to help you discover and understand what occurred at each site.
Banks-Solander Track
The Banks Solander Track is also an easy walk of 700m, taking 15-30 minutes. It is a very peaceful walk taking you past eucalypts, banksias and ferns. These plants are what Joseph Banks and Daniel Solander documented so much information about. There are plenty of informative panels showcasing the numerous plants as you walk along. I particularly love the banksias and have some in my own garden.
Maru and Yena Loop
The Maru and Yena Loop is about 2.5km long and will take about 1 hour – depending on how fast you walk and what you stop to look at. This track takes you out to the cliffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean and back again. It is rather spectacular. I would make sure it is a nice clear day to ensure you can see everything. Maybe even some whales as they migrate up and down Australia’s coast.
Cape Baily Coast Walk
Cape Baily Coast Walk is the longest of all the walks and is classified as ‘medium’. It is about 8km in length, 4km each way, taking around 2.5 hours depending on how fast you walk and what you look at.
You can start on this track at a couple of points. Yena Trail joins the Solander Track and leads to the Cape Baily Coast Walk. The Cape Baily Coast Walk is quite spectacular and takes you past clifftops overlooking the Pacific Ocean. There is diverse flora and fauna to discover and the Cape Baily Lighthouse. At the end of this walk you will need to either turn back to Kurnell or continue another 5km to Cronulla.
Whale Watching at Cape Solander
Cape Solander is a fantastic place to whale watch. Every year between May and July the whales migrate north – and migrate south between September and November. If lucky you will see Southern Right and Humpback Whales and loads of dolphins swimming and playing in the area. Don’t forget to bring binoculars if you are coming to see whales on the Humpback Highway. You can visit Cape Solander when you take one of the walks, or you could drive. If you drive you will need to pay the $10 entrance fee to the park.
Seaside Village and Silver Beach
Sit along the shore and enjoy the view during your one day in Kurnell
As a child visiting Kurnell, I remember a corner grocery store and maybe a shop to get an ice-cream. The grocery store still exists but there are now coffee shops and stores to while away your time. Or you can walk along Silver Beach as many locals and visitors do. You could have a swim or just take in the view overlooking Botany Bay. There are views to Sydney Airport, where you will see the planes landing and taking off. Or you could sit on the foreshore. If you would like to have a picnic, bring some food.
For more information about Kurnell and the local area visit the National Parks of NSW website.
Organise Your Day trip to Kurnell
Getting to Kurnell
Kurnell can be reached either by car or train and bus. When travelling by car you will take Captain Cook Drive from Woolooware all the way to Kurnell. Having a car will make it easier and quicker to get to Kurnell and you will be able to drive through the Kamay Botany Bay National Park rather than walk. If you don’t have a car you can always rent one. Check out DiscoverCars daily rates and to book a car here.
If you are taking the train and bus, take a train from Sydney to Cronulla (the Illawarra Train Line). From Cronulla Train Station, you can catch the 987 bus to Kurnell which leaves from outside of the train station.
Where to stay in Kurnell – if you want to stay longer than a day
If you would like to extend your stay in Kurnell from a one day visit to Kurnell to longer, well, the accommodation in Kurnell is limited. There is a caravan park along Silver Beach or there are holiday homes to rent. Most accommodation can be found in nearby Cronulla. For budget travellers there is the excellent Cronulla Beach Backpackers. For budget to mid-range accommodation check the Cronulla Motor Inn and the Quest Cronulla Beach. For a mid to high-range accommodation check the Rydges Cronulla Beachside. If an apartment is more your style check the Cronulla Beach Break or the Coquillage Cronulla Beachside Apartment.
What to bring to Kurnell
For your 1 day in Kurnell you might want to bring some food for a picnic in the park, or visit one of the coffee shops. If you plan to do some of the walks, definitely have a water bottle, a good waterproof jacket (as along the cliff faces it can be very windy) and a good pair of walking shoes. And maybe a towel to cool off in the ocean.
A final Word on Visiting Kurnell
Kurnell and the Kamay Botany Bay National Park are both very interesting. They will provide a glimpse into the history of Australia from both the Aboriginal and the European point of view. Whatever you may think about what happened here in Kurnell and how Kurnell is known as the birthplace of modern Australia, it is an easy day trip from Sydney to discover for yourself.
I have lived in Sydney for 1,5 years and never heard of this place before. I should visit next time I go to Sydney 🙂
Yes, definitely try to make the effort. You will be pleasantly surprised.
I’m Australian and was not aware of Kurnell and the infamous location. I will have to visit the site and do some of the lovely walks there.
I think Kurnell is kept a secret because of the issues it raises between peoples in Australia – shame – people need to know and understand history of Australia. I hope you can get there to do some of the lovely walks. I recommend the coastal one.
I like the look of the longer walks along the coast–looks beautiful. That, combined with the history of Cook’s landings, would make for a great day trip.
The headland at Kurnell has a spectacular walk. Sheer cliffs overlooking the ocean – and hopefully you might see some whales! Combine it with the history and it is a good day trip in Sydney.
Well, I learned something new today. Thank you. I did not know about this area. I would love to visit, so I will pin this for reference when I do.
People don’t talk about Kurnell as they don’t want to offend the indigenous Aboriginals but I think it is a good place to know about to learn about Australia’s history. I hope you can visit some time.
Kernel is full of history and it’s interesting to see the aboriginal point of view. You don’t see that very often.
I’d tried to write the post from both sides of the fence providing both the British and indigenous points of view. Sounds like I succeeded!